Design and Product Development

Assessment of Weft-Knit Structures and Garment Construction Methods to Develop Optimal Extreme Weather Base-Layers 

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Abstract

Extreme-weather base-layers are essential for maintaining comfort in cold and variable environmental conditions, particularly for tactical and performance applications. This research presents a phased assessment of weft-knit structures, fiber selection, and garment construction methods to develop an optimized base-layer system. Merino wool blend yarns incorporating Tencel and Lycra were selected for their thermoregulation, comfort, elasticity, and inherent flame resistance. Weft-knit structures, including jersey, rib, pique, and mesh, were programmed and produced using Shima Seiki software and machinery. Fabric samples will be evaluated through mechanical, thermal, and moisture-management testing, including air permeability, wicking, abrasion resistance, and flame resistance, to establish a comparative comfort index. Findings will inform zonal engineering strategies using thermal and pressure mapping. Prototyped garments will be developed using both cut-and-sew and whole-garment knitting methods and assessed through testing and human wear trials. This integrated material-to-garment approach provides a foundation for adaptive, high-performance base-layer systems for extreme environments.

Keywords: Weft-knit structures, Zonal textile engineering, Seamless knitting, Protective apparel, Knit fabric performance testing, Whole-garment construction, Seamless Knitting, Protective Apparel, Wholegarment construction

How to Cite:

Pandey, A., Walters, G., Youn, S., Parillo-Chapman, L. & Mathur, K., (2025) “Assessment of Weft-Knit Structures and Garment Construction Methods to Develop Optimal Extreme Weather Base-Layers ”, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 82(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.22062