Creative Design: Undergraduate

A Modern Farthingale

  • Suzanna Tanksley (University of North Texas)
  • Hae Jin Gam (University of North Texas)


The purpose of this project was to create an interesting design using striped fabric. We were encouraged to experiment with different and challenging fabric manipulation techniques with the goal of creating an interesting design. Most of the top was made with a plain, black and white striped fabric. The skirt was made with a solid, black suiting fabric. I wanted to create a bustier that followed the silhouette of a Spanish Farthingale, while also experimenting with several pleating techniques. I chose each technique based on how it would affect the appearance of the striped fabric. One of these techniques is the cartridge pleat. I learned about it through my job in a theater costume shop. This kind of pleat was used in sixteenth century to control large amounts of fullness at the waist in skirts. But rather than simply repeating a design from a sixteenth century history book, I wanted to create a more modernized look.

Keywords: draping, bustier, farthingale, stripe fabric

How to Cite:

Tanksley, S. & Gam, H., (2020) “A Modern Farthingale”, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 77(1). doi:



Published on
28 Dec 2020
Peer Reviewed